Le Jardin des remparts, Beaune, Burgundy

A warm crusty bread. Note the container - made with dough.  At a recommended restaurant called Le Jardin des ramparts in Beaune, Burgundy.  

Above were four amuse bouche items which foretold what we would be expecting from the chef in terms of his skills and creativity.  Too delightful to be eaten.

The cold soup was cleverly created and tasteful. The white portion is corn emulsion (intense flavoured) with curry and tomato ( orange blob). 

The next course of fresh mackerel with slivers of courgette and accompanied with pickles was a dish both a feast to the eyes and taste buds. Small gelee cubes studded all over the dish, made from mackerel bone stock, they added an overall refreshing flavour. Fish was fresh, as good as sashimi and the pickles added a touch of tartness that went well with seafood.  The courgette slices were crunchy.  The portion was generous and could have been the main course but I wasn't complaining.

                                                                                                                       

The main course was fillet mignon du porc.  The pork was moist to the last bite, well and evenly browned on the sides and accompanied with braised pickled onions.  A small pot of mash potato with texture of a mousse was also served.

Dessert was rhubarb tart with rhubarb sorbet, topped with aged blanc vin sauce, giving a good balance of sweetness and tartness.  Petit fours - lemon grass flavoured pineapple mousse tart, panacotta with raspberry, basil macaron and bacon flavoured white choc mousse and choc mousse were sumptuous sweet endings to a wonderful meal.  All of the above for Euro 55.  A half bottle of 2011 Puligny Montrachet Les Enseigneres paired so well with the food.  No wonder walk in guests were turned away.

 

Thought I should include a night view of Beaune taken after dinner while strolling back to the hotel.

Le Millesime in Chambolle Musigny

A visit to Le Millesime in Chambolle Musigny, Burgundy is a discovery, not least because  it is in a small area devoted entirely to producing its famous Chambolle Musigny wine; we couldn't locate the town centre at all. A senior resident taking her evening walk said that there is none. The neighbourhood was really quiet at that hour when most of the residents there would have retired for the day. The restaurant is not rustic which is what one might expect given the circumstances, but oddly, modern and chi chi.

Madeleines with bacon bits, compliment of the chef were fresh from the oven and different from the usual sweet ones.  Unfortunately, in my haste to consume them, I forgot to take a photo. Anyhow, it looks like your typical madeleines. Next came the cod fish ball served in a hilarious way.  It was stuck to a wire and bounced like a ping pong ball. Accompanying it was the mushroom soup served in egg shell with a raw yolk.

Appetiser of foie gras shaped like an apple and covered with layer of Granny Smith jam which lends some tartness to the rich pate.  The souffle like muffin was light and fluffy with a crispy top to add texture 

The main course of Irish beef steak for 2 wouldn't have been our choice if not for the fact that we never had Irish beef before. Couldn't finish as it was too rare, but have to concede that the meat was tender and less gamey.  It went extremely well with the 2011 Chambolle Musigny Bussiers, exquisite even if it is such a young vintage.

Dessert was well simmered pineapple bits in light cream mousse in a glass-shaped brandy snap drizzled with an intense mango sauce.  Very tropical indeed. Can't remember what dessert the one in a glass was.

House marshmallows of different flavours were offered at end of meal. strawberry, lemon and mint. No prizes for guessing right which colour went with which flavour.  The menu cost EUR 49.  Service was unobtrusive and efficient.  The restaurant may well be on its way to a 1-star Michelin status.

Restaurant De Visscherie (The Fish Restaurant), Brugge

In June 2014, a meal at Restaurant De Visscherie (The Fish Restaurant), Brugge was one of the highlights in my culinary and culture tour.  The pre-eminent seafood restaurant is located in the Fish Market in Bruges, and it does not serve any other type of meat except seafood.

Grissini warm and crispy to start.  Chopped parsley was filled along the cracks of the breadstick.  The dip of tomatoes, anchovies and langoustine was heavenly.

Amuse bouche was fresh maatje (herrings) which luckily for me was available at that time of the fresh herring season.  Succulent and fresh, like sashimi if not better.

Winkels, grey prawns (specialty of Brugge) and topshell were lightly boiled and dressed in oil and salt.  Needed some work and experience to get the meat out, but well worth the effort.

One of my favourite courses.  Served cold, it is chopped fresh jack mackerel in roasted red pepper soup.  Squid ink sorbet topped with a prawn keropok added a touch of exotic to the dish.  The flavour and texture very well balanced.

 Turbot was extremely fresh, slightly pan fried with braised fennel.  Wonderful taste and freshness.

Main course of grilled baby lobster.  Can't ask for more.  Now understand why it is such a well loved item in still life paintings from that part of the world.





My friends and I did not have wine at dinner but with due respect to Belgium's great beer tradition, had a well recommended 2014 brew of Straffe Hemdrjk.

Aha tricked you!! Thought it was another dish?
A still life painting from the Rijks Museum, Amsterdam.

Dessert was simple yet great.  The cake was one of the best I've tasted. Moist with cherry bits, accompanied with more cherries and a raspberry sorbet.






Two words describe the entire experience.  Freshness and effort to bring out the best of the daily catch from the fish market.  Meal costs us EUR 88 including drinks per pax.  Pricier than most during the trip but certainly great value considering I cannot have it here at home for the same price.